Trip Reports

Hanoi
At the airport, after moving from minibuss to minibuss and being quoted 10 different prices we went for public bus 17: 9000 vnd/pers. To find it, as you exit the terminal walk right and keep going until you’ll see the buses or locals waiting in a small parking lot on your left. The bus terminates north of the old quarter.
We stayed at Culture Hostel. Good, clean rooms, wonderful staff. They helped with train tickets, Halong cruise and were extremly available.
Highlights of our Hanoi Trip are:
– streetfood tour: 20$/pers, so worth it.
– walk in the city: old quarter, kiem lake, french quarter
– ethnic museum: a must. Taxi from old quarter 120000vnd or bus 7000 vnd/pers(google maps is your friend and has public transport info)
– nola cafe: oasis of silence

Sapa
Overnight Fraxipan train. Apparently top of the line. Bring silksacks, we saw cockroaches. Transfer from Lao Cai to Sapa by minibus arranged by hotel(50000 vnd/pers) but we used the public bus on the way back and it was cheaper(28000 vnd) and faster. The public bus leaves from the large parking lot left of the train station.
In Sapa we took one day to stroll and see the city. We then booked a 2d1n trek with ethos. Real homestay, great guide, wonderful sights. Last day we walked to CatCat village and Cha Phin village. Nice walk and lively scenary. Back to Lao Cai by public bus close to the church. Yellow bus with price written on the side(28000 vnd). Private buses are generally grey.

Ha Giang
You should not miss Ha Giang. The sights are out if this world.
Overnight at Lao Cai Galaxy Hotel. Manager took care of tickets to Ha Giang. We took the 6:30 bus to Ha Giang(120000 VND/person). There is anorher bus at 11 it seems so we could have stayed in Sapa overnight. Crowded bus full of locals. Bumpy ride. We arrived in Ha Giang at 12:30. We had arranged booking at Ha Giang Resort and they arranged a taxi driver to be expecting us. 90000 VND to resort. One night at resort and then we had a private car for 3d2n, everything setup by the reception staff. Stayed in Dong Van and visited Quan ba pass, yen minh, sa phin for g’ming palace, dong van, lung cu, french fortress,mai pi leng pass, meo vac. 3 full days for everything. Contact me for emails of people in Ha Giang and Dong Van that can help with tours. There are public buses from Ha Giang to Dong Van and Mao Vec but no photo stops and it is really worth stoping. Alternative is renting bikes from Ha Giang – mountain road though. To return, night bus from Ha Giang to Hanoi for 220000vnd/pers. Ok but crowded as well. From Hanoi bus station we took public bus no 34 to arrive in old quarter:7000 vnd/pers.

Phong Nha Ke Bang
Wonderful cave system to visit when travelling from Hanoi to Hue. We took the SE1 night train Hanoï to Hue and arrived in Dong Hoi at 5:50: 39$/pers. Waited until 6:30 for pickup from easy tiger hostel(125000 vnd each as we shared with other people arriving with the SE19 train). We took the Natural Park tour from easy tiger for 60$/each: dark cave and paradise cave. It seems there are cheaper tours in the village if you have time to shop around. The caves are stunning. Dinner at bamboo café (200000vnd for 2 pers) and night at easy tiger (8$/bed in 4 bed dorm). Try Hanna’s brownies, they’re delicious. We took the morning bus to Hue at 4:50 AM.

Hue
Arrival with the bus from Easy Tiger at around 10:30. Walked from bys station to Gracw Hotel for 25 minutes. Quiet, relaxed feel in the town. Extremly warm greeting at Grace Hotel – gave us tips, maps and early check-in. Tried the local rice crepe and the Nem Lui at a restaurant recomended by Grace. I loved both. Afternoon in the Citadel: 105000 vnd/pers + optional 150000 for official english speaking guide. I loved the citadel, especially the abandoned parts, partially flooded. The guide was average, i would not recommend it. Evening at Dong Ba market, loved the atmosphere. Dinner at lityle Italy, very goid pizza. Lazy morning next day, good breakfast(try the vietnamese omlet and the pho at Grace), afternoon tomb tour. Tour was very hurried and guide not informative. Either go by yourself or find some goid tour organisers. Evening at Big C cinema to see Mockingjay: 60k for movie, 50k for popcorn, english audio. Bus to Hoi An next day after eating at Me Me restaurant(yummy), taking visa photos and enjoying vietnamese coffee in a very vietnamese place(i’ll try to find the address).

Hoi An
We arrived by bus from Hue. Sleeping bus for a 4.5h ride for around 150k vnd. Even if it was in the afternoon we slept a bit. The bus station is 15 minutes by foot from the old town to the north east. We stayed a Green Grass Homestay – nice and welcoming but a bit far.15$/night including breakfast and bikes. We did the island cooking class for 32$ each and enjoyed it a lot. We took a My Son sunrise tour(pickup at 4:50, 150k vnd/pers) and would recommend: we were 7 people on the entire site. The old town is nice for evening walks. To eat, go to Nu Eatery (their sesame chicken, tomato soup and chilli ice cream are delicious), for tea go to Reachout. For burgers Zoom Cafe was ok. We booked a private transfer from our hotel to Da Nang airport(270k vnd but shuttles run every hour at :15 for 110k). We had bought the tickets 2 days before departure to HCM with Vietjetair for around 50$/pers. Flight was ok.

Ho Chi Min City
Public bus from the airport to Ben Thanh market. Cross one lane and on the right as you exit. 5k pers + 5k per large luggage. Stayed at Xavier Hotel for 23.5$/night. No windows in the room and it seems it’s standard in HCM for cheapish rooms. Okish hotel. Eat at Gotcha for 50k burger combos and stay in the area in the evening for drinks, food and everything in between. We did tours with SihnTourist. Good quality/price ratio: 168k/pers for Cao Dai and Cu Chi daytour. Tourguide was ok. We listened to jazz at JazzArt club: 85k cover charge, 6$ wisky, 6$ house wine, 6$ beer, 7$ cocktails. Nice atmosphere and music. Walking tour half a day for main architectural sights. Interesting visit at reunification palace for 30k. Went to the cinema at Crescent Mall(120k taxi from Ben Thanh), 90k for seat, 73k for popcorn combo. Bubble Tea on Le Lai opposite to the park from 30k. Kfc combo for two at 158k. Bus to Can Tho for 130k/pers from Truong Hang.

Can Tho
Arrived by Truong Hang bus for 130k each. Good service. Stayed at Kim Lan hotel for 18$/night. Went on the Kim Lan Homestay for 60$/pers, would recommend. Went on a sunrise floating market tour(the small one) for approx 30$ for both(taxi + boat). The large one we visited as part of the homestay.

Chau Doc
Stayed at the lovely Murray Guesthouse, 33$/night.
To visit Tra Su forest/bird sanctuary we took bus 12 from the main street towards the market. 10k/pers. Got down in Nha Bang and took bus 11 to Muong Bien bridge, 6k/pers. From there you can walk(3.5km) but we took a motorbike:30k for the two but the haggling started at 100k. Just keep walking and someone will follow you lowering the prices. On tje way back we took 2 motorbikes to Nha Bang for 40k each and then bus 12 back to Chau Doc.
We biked to and from Sam Mountain – 6 km each way, ok biking.There’s a sort of bike parking at the base of the mountain for 5k per bike. You can also take the number 12 bus. Speedboat to Phnom Penh for 25$/pers.

Cambodia

Phnom Penh
Came from Vietnam by Speedboat, Hang Chau I think. 25$ if bought in Chau Doc, 33$ online. Visa on arrival for Cambodia 34$/pers, 30$ for the visa, 4$ for “fast processing”. Have one photo available.
In Phnom Penh stayed at Welkommen Guesthouse for 20$/night. Not great. Riverside is more expensive but my impression us that for late booking you need upwards of 30$ for ok hotels.
Tuktuk prices we paid: 2$ from S21 to riverside. 15$ for riverside to killingfields wait and back. 1$ for short ride, like royal palace to riverside. Tuktuks from riverside are more expensive. No public transport, no taxis. We walked from riverside to S21, a good 40-50 min walk but pleasant. Saw one movie at The Flick 2, would recommend. Capitol bus to Battambang for 6$/each, an experience.

Battambang
Stayed at Ramchang Guesthouse for 12$/night. Very large rooms, nice shakes, very good laundry (by hand), a bit far from the city but tuk tuks available in front for 1$. Dinner at Jaan Bai (the ribs are to die for) and Nary Kitchen for the lok lak. Took a half day tuktuk tour to see the only winery in Cambodia, Wat Banan and the bat cave for 10$. Capitol bus to Seam Reap for 4.5$/pers.

Siem Reap
We splurged in Siem Reap as we were seeing some old friends from Singapore. Stayed at the lovely Snow River Guesthouse for 24$/night. Large rooms, wooden floors, just great. Went to Preah Vihear, Koh Kear and Beng Melea with mr. Narin for 239$/4 persons. Great day trip (6 am to 9 pm). We did a 2 day tour of Angkor temples with Happy Angkor Tours, 75$/pers. We also did a 4h horse ride with Happy Ranch, a very nice way of seeing the country side. On the culinary side we enjoyed the food and cocktails at Georges Rhumerie. Schnitzel Wirtin was tasty. Marum was underwelming. Mahob was good. Giant Ibis bus to Phnom Pehn for 15$/each. The 10:30 pm bus has flat beds, it was a good experience. Connecting with Soraya to Kep.

Kep
Arrived in Kep after a 4h bus ride from Phnom Penh. Stayed at Au Paradis Bleu close to the Rabbit Island Peer for 35$/night. So-so, staff aloof, nice pool. One day at Rabbit Island for 7$/pers boat round trip, booked through the hotel. Good food and nice beach. Ate twice at Srey Pov for 7.5$ for 3 pepper crabs and once at the market(lunch) for 6$ for 6 boiled crabs(1 kg). New years at Kepmandou, we had a blast. Bus back to Phnom Penh booked by calling Sorya Kampot. Ask for your seat numbers when you book. We got picked up at the rabbit island peer at 7:30 and paid 5$/pers directly to the driver Connecting minivan to Mondulkiri at 1 pm in Phnom Khone

Mondulkiri/Sen Monorom
We arrived late after a 5h30 packed minivan ride from Phnom Pehn (11$/pers). We stayed at Mr Tree Lodge for 104/night for a bungalow with hot water. Breakfast and dinner there are ok. We took 2 day jungle adventure with Mondulkiri Project for 70$/pers. One day trekking, sleeping in the jungle lodge and one day elephant fun. Bring lots of layers and warm clothes for the night in the jungle. Bud to Kratie booked from Tree Lodge for 7$/pers.
Ratings:
Mondulkiri Proiect – 5/5
Tree Lodge – 5/5

Kratie
Arrived by bus from Sen Monorom for 7$/pers. Ok experience. Slept and ate at Le Tonle. 15$/night for a double room with A/C. Great internet, decent food. Walked on Koh Trong island(2000 riel round trip from Kratie peer). Booked tickets to laos at U Hong restaurant: 16$ for trip to Don Khone island in Si Phan Don. Advertised as a 5h ride, it took 12 hours.
Ratings:
Le Tonle Guesthouse – 5/5
Le Tone Restaurant – 3.8/5

Cambodia Laos Border
As expected we had to pay 5$/pers in small bribes. Resistance is futile.

Don Khone
Arrived late and in the evening. The bungalow we had booked was full and said we had canceled. Managed to find accommodation elsewhere for 10$/night for a river facing bungalow with hot water. Clean but not sturdy. Rented bikes for 10k kip/pers and cycled round the island. Rented a boat for the sunset for 100k kip. Transfer to Pakse for 50k/each. Had very good fench fries at one of the last restaurants towards the east of the islandk

Pakse
Arrived at Pakse from Don Khone for 50k/each. Stayed one night at Alissa Guesthouse for 150k/room. Ate very good vegetarian for 1$/dish at nazim. Next day took the pickup truck to Tad Fane for 30k/pers. Hitchhicked (a westerner stopped) until Paksong. Had great coffee and caught the 5pm bus to Thateng for 20k??. Overnight in Thateng for 60k/room. Caught the morning 8 am bus to Ba Beng for 20k and at Ba Beng caught the bus to Tad Lo for 20k. Rented a moto in Tad Lo for 60k/half day and did the waterfalls. Caught the night bus from Vientiane to Thakhek for 40k back to Pakse. Overnight at lovely Nang Noi, family room for 120k. Bus to Thakhek for 80k/pers.

Thakhek
Arrived from Pakse for 80k/pers. Negotiated a tuktuk for 50knfrom bus station for 4 pers. Stayed at Souditha Guesthouse for 100k/room. Rented a minivan with driver for Kong Lor from the main square, 1050k. Bus to Vientiane for 110k the next day.

Vientiane
One night at a guesthouse close to the night market for 120k/night for a twin room. Bus to Vang Vieng the next day for 45k/pers.

Vang Vieng
Arrived from Vientiane for 45k/pers. Stayed at Sisavong guesthouse for 100k/triple room, very large, spotless and with balcony. Would recommend. Do not bother with the day kayak trips from street vendors, they are crowded and you only kayak for a couple of hours tops. Did a one day jungle trek with Wonderful Tours for 25$/pers (group of 4, 40$/pers for a group of two) and would recommend it. Visited and had breakfast at Mulberry Organic Farm, would recommend. Ate at Paris Cafe, AMD, both good. Bus to Luang Prabang for 85k/pers.

Luang Prabang
Arrived after a 9h bus ride from Vang Vieng for 85k/pers. Slept at Phonemaly guesthouse for 20$/room. Ok but no more. Found a wonderful japenese lao restaurant in one of the alleys parallel to the mekong. Best service and host in all se asia. Great breakfast and bread at the French bakery. Plenty of good restaurants in Luang Prabang. Visited the Ethnic Museum, Royal Palace and stupas. Slow boat to Huay Xay for 110k each leg(Luang Prabang to Pak Beng, Pak Beng to Huay Xay)

Slow boat
220k/entire trip. In Luang Prabang catch a tuktuk to the slow boat landing(past the airport). Arrive there before 8 for good places in front of the boat where there is less engine noise. Boat left at 8:30 sharp. Morning is really cold so dress appropriately (think layers). Food on the boat is instant noodles so grab snacks and sandwiches in the city before you board. The first trip takes 9h. In Pak Beng the cheapest and best accommodation is left up the hill. Double room for 80k at Sivansak. Awesome buffalo curry at Sabaidee restaurant. The next day the boat leaves at 8:30. Arrive in Huay Xai at around 5. The city and guesthouses are 2km to the right on the main road, one can walk it.

Huay Xay and the Gibbon Experience
Arrived at 5 with the slow boat from Pak Beng. Walked 2.5km to Sabaidee guesthouse(walk right on the main street from the peer). Payed 90k for a double room, clean and good enough. Checked in for Gibbon the next day and went there for 3 days. After Gibbon we stayed one more night at Sabaidee before catching a VIP bus to Luang Namtha. Don’t remember the price.

Luang Namtha
Arrived by bus and stayed for one night at bubgalow place a but far from center. Large abd stylish bungalows for 100k/double. Negitiated a triple for 150k from 200k. Changed hotels the next day because it was cold and noisy. Moved to Thulasith guesthouse for 80k for a double. Ate good breakfasts at Bamboo Lodge. Good Lao food at Mr Lie. Booked a 1 day kayak/1 day trek with XXX, 70$/pers for a group of 5. Good kayak and trek, very poor handling of customer safety. One in our group had a previous injury and she was told the hike was easy when it was not. She barely made it. Minivan to Luang Prabang.

Luang Prabang 2
Stayed at Phonemaly for 20$/night. Ate good local foos at Tamarind. Bought some P Noy paintings.

Bangkok
Arrived by plane at BKK. Took subway and then taxi to Khaosan Banthai for 600B. Spotless, spartan rooms, cleab shared bathrooms, great staff. Did the Sampong cooking class for 1000B. Sent a parcel from the post office at JJ weekend market for 1400B EMS. The JJ market post office is opened on Sunday. Took the A1 bus to DMK for our Air Asia flight to Yangoon.

Yangoon
Arrived in Yangoon at 9PM. Passed immigration at 9:50. Taxi into the city for 9000C. Weird driver and lots of speed. Stayed at Ocean Pearl Inn 2 for 28$/night. We had booked in advance via booking. Booking through their website gets you 25$/night. In Laos we would have payed 10$/night for the room size and quality(no windows) but it was clean. Booked as soon as possible nightbus ticketa to Kalaw with JJ Express via facebook/email. Just sent a message with our route, day, names and passport numbers. Did the Swedaya Paya and walked around the city in the first day. Ate exensive and good at Sharky’s. Did the circular line on the second. Great nightbus to Kalaw for 18.5$.

Kalaw
Arrived in Kalaw at 4AM and did an early checkin at Golden Kalaw. Room rate is 25$ and we payed 12$ extra for early checkin. Ate well at the restaurant by the stairs to the monastery. Booked a 3 day trek to Lake Inle with Ever Smile for 42$ (we were a group of 10). Trek was good, food hit and miss, group nice guide nice but not great. Walked 54km in 3 days, slept in local sheds. Good experience over all.

Inle Lake
Arrived after the trek and stayed 2 nights at Inle Inn for 30$ and one night at Manaw Thukha for 25$. Would recommend the latter. One day cycling around the lake(skip the hot springs), one day boat trip(very touristy but fun). Ate at Golden Kite(good pizza and pesto, we were given a tour of the kitchen), Bamboo Hut(delicious on the cycling route) and Live Dim Sum. Took the daybus to Bagan for 10$.

Bagan
Arrived at 4 PM in Bagan and was picked up by our guesthouse Saw Nyein San. Stayed 3 nights with them for 40$/night. Myanmar price – in Laos would have payed a max of 20$. Great staff and service, good breakfast and clean rooms. Rented 2 e bikes for 6$/day each and explored the temples. Ate at Aroma 2, Be Kind to Animals and Leo. Took Malikha Boat to Mandalay for 35$.

Mandalay
We arrived in Mandalay by boat at around 5 PM. Took a tuk-tuk for something like 4$ to hotel A1 where we had booked two nights for 30$/night. Great hotel for this price in Myanmar. Ate in the evening at Shan Mama for 9$/2 persons: point and eat myanmar style currys, very tasty and nice service. Next day we took a tour of Sagan, Inwa for 30$/pers with Borderland. After Mandalay we took a bus to Hsipaw for 5$/each where we had booked a guesthouse for the night for 14$. We took the train to Pyin OO Lwin early next morning and enjoyed the viaduct. In Pyin Oo Lwin we spent two days at Golden Gate resort for 25$/night. Ok with nothing more. We ate strawberries, wondered around the market and the botanical garden which is worth a visit. From Pyin Oo Lwin we took a minivan to Moniwa for 7$/pers. Uppon arrival we hired a tuktuk to go ser the 200m stabdung budha and the colorfoul budhist temple nearby. It cost 11.5$. The next day we rented a motorcycle and went to see the budha caves near monywa.

India

Delhi
Stayed one night at hotel All Iz Well for 28$/night. Dirty. We then moved to the slightly cleaner Holidat Int. for 30$/night. Visited the Red Fort Haja Masjid, Sikh Temple and the bazaar and spice market. Ate vegetarian in Pahar Ganj. Used Uber for taxi. Caught the train to Mathura for 1.75$/pers.

Vrindavan
Arrived by train to Mathura and went straight to the tourist information desk. Got a rickshaw for 200 rupees(3.22$) to our hotel, Hare Krishna Orchid resort. Stayed there 3 nights for 40$/night. Bad value for money, dirty and lousy food. Staff ok. Vrindavan has very few good and safe dining options. Train to Agra after Holi.

Agra
Arrivd by train and got a prepaid rickshaw for 132 rupees(2.1$). Stayed at hotel Ray of Maya for 2000 rupees, bit more than 30$. Good, clean hotel with helpful staff. Ate at Pinch of Spice: pricey average food. Saw the Taj at sunrise and then hired a taxi for the other sights for 2000(32.25%) rupees. Don’t miss Baby Taj. To see the Taj at sunset, no need to enter the Mehtabh Gardens on the other side of the river, keep walking past them to the river and you get a great view. After Agra took the train to Jaipur for 7 hours including delay.

Jaipur
Arrived from Agra by train. Took a prepaid rickshaw for 120 rupees to our hotel, Manaw Thukha where we paid 15$/night. Lots of charm but some restoring badly needed. Had a fancy dinner at The Kitchen at Jaipur Modern. Next day we hired a rickshaw for 450 rupees (7.25$). We saw the Amber Palace, a well nearby, the Hall of Wind, The Observatory and the sunset at Monkey Temple. Took a 12h train ride to Jaisalmer.

Jaislamer
Arrived with little delay after 12h from Jaipur. Stayed at the wonderful Pol Haveli for 1000 rupees/night – 16$. Visited the fort. Ate at Free Tibet(would not recommend), Gaji’s (great Korean) and spent a lot of time at Kuku Cafe: great owner, coffee and deserts. Did a camel safari with Mystic for 1500 rupees/pers -25$. Took a 18h train to Delhi.

Nepal
Kathmandu
Arrived from Delhi and got a pickup from our hotel for 13$/pers. Prepayed taxi would have been cheaper. Stayed at Zen B&B for 20$/night. Good location, helpful staff, clean rooms. Ate at Places, a great vegetarian restaurant. Walked to Durbar Square and then took a taxi from Thamel to Budha Stupa for 2.8$ with meter.. Ate at Typical Nepali Kitchen, pricey but good. Had a good falafel at Chick’n’falafel. Bus to Pokhara for 8$/pers. Before leaving stayed again at Zen B&B. Ate at Ship, excellent restaurant.

Pokhara
Arrived from Kathmandu with a 8$/pers tourist bus. Stayed at Harvest Moon for 15$/night breakfast included. Very good. Trekked the Poon Hill trek for 5 days with Lovely Nepal for 285$/pers full package. Did one day Tibetan Encounter for 60$/pers, loved it.

Gorkha
Got there via two local buses, one to Kathmandu and then from the Gorkha road junction local bus to Gorkha. Stayed one night at Gorkha Cafe – liveable but barely. Thr bed is a thin layer of foam on top of plywood. Taxi from bus stop to Gorkha Cafe 200 rupees. Visited the fort and the city and caught a local bus to Kathmandu the next day. In Kathmandu stayed at Zen B&B.

Thailand

Koh Lanta
Arrived at Krabi Airport via KL. From Krabi Airport took shuttle to Krabi Town(20 minutes) and then shuttle to Koh Lanta(3.5h). Stayed at Serendipity, great stay and great host. Did our Open Water Padi with Blue Planet Divers. Ate at Tides (expensive but good), Time for Lime, Irie. Flew to New Zeeland with Malaysia.

New Zeeland
To see New Zeeland we rented a car from Omega Cars for 28NZD/day.

Auckland
Took shuttle from airport for 16NZD pp. Stayed two nights at Verandah for 78NZD/night, good stay. Walked around the city, saw parks, waterfront and museums. Picked up car and went to Pahia, Bay of Islands. On the way back stayed at Bammers near Mount Eden- good stay with free parking.

Pahia
Arrived after a an approximate 4h drive. Stayed at Mousetrap Backpackers for 70 NZD/double room. Spent one day sailing in the bay, great sights but pricey (95 NZD pp including snacks and sandwich for lunch). Visited Waimangi Treaty Grounds – very interesting. Drove back to Auckland and the next day drove to Rotorua.

Rotorua
On the way we stopped at Zealong for tea plantation tour and tasting. Stayed 4 nights in Rotorua at Astray for 70nzd/night. Visited Waiotapu, Waimangu, Waitomo glowworm caves, kiwi sanctuary and, with a special mention, the Rotorua Museum. Ask for the hourly guided free tours. Drove to Turangi for the crossing afterward.

Turangi
Drive from Rotorua and stayed at A Plus Samurai Lodge for 48nzd/night. Did the Tangariro Crossing on a half sunny half misty day.

Wellington
Long drive from Turangi. Stayed witha great Airbnb host for 78nzd/night, parking, laundry and breakfast free. Visited the Botanical Gardens ans Te Papa museum. Crossed thr Cook Straight with Blueridge, good experience.

Koikoura
Drove from Picton to Koikoura with a stop for wine: Bladen and Cloduy Bay. In Koikoura stayed 2 nights at Fishtank Lodge. Went on a whale watching flight, saw the seal colony and walked part of the peninsula walk. Tried the crayfish. On the way to Nelson stopped at the seal pups pool for a great time watching the seal pups playing. Drove to Nelson.

Nelson
Stayed two nights at the wonderful Bug hostel. Tried the cinema, a local bar (try the Weiss City beer) and walked to Center of NZ. Booked two days in Abel Tasman with Kahu Kayaks which also rented sleeping bags. Drove to Moteuka after and toured some breweries on the way (stoke).

Motueka
Stayed one night before going to Abel Tasman. Stayed at Laughing Kiwi. Drove to Kahu Kayaks and spent the
next two days in Abel Tasman. Drove to Murchinson after Abel Tasman.

Murchinson
Stayed at the laidback Lazy Cow for one night. Drove to Karamea the next morning.

Karamea
Stayed two nights at the average Rongo Backpackers for 70 NZD/night. Bad bed. Visited the gorgeous Oparara Valley. Drove to Greymouth afterwards.

Greymouth
Stopped at the pancake rocks on the way to Greymouth. Slept one night at Noah’s Ark. Walked around the city. Drove to Franz Josef.

Franz Josef
On the way stopped at Wood Creek hike, Hokitika and Hokitika Gorges. Arrived late in Franz Josef. Stayed 3 nights at the comfortable Glowowrm Cottages. Free breakfast and soup and studios at 65NZD/night. Drove and saw the Glaciers and Mirror Lake.

Queenstown
Drove through Haast Pass (most scenic drive I’ve seen) to arrive in Queenstown. Stayed two nights at Flaming Kiwi for 82NZD/night (loved it here) and one night in Top 10 for 89 NZD (not really good). Visited Arrowtown and two wineries out of which we recommend Amisfield. Drove to Te Anau after.

Te Anau/Milford Sound
Drove to Te Anau for two nights at cozy Rosie’s Homestay, coziest hostel yet. Payed 75 NZD/night. Cruised Milford Sound with Milford Sound Encounter (good experience). Drove to Dunedin after.

Dunedin
Spent 2 nights in Dunedin at Manor House Backpackers for 65 NZD. Visited the city and the Otago Peninsula for great marine life. Drove to Christchurch

Christchurch
Two nights at Dorset House Backpackers for 82 NZD (nice stay). Walked around the city mostly. Flight to Cairns after

Australia
Drove Cairns to Coolangata and flew into Sydney. Rented from Apex. Prices below are in AUD.

Cairns
Stayed two nights at Dreamtime Travelers Rest for 65$/night. Quite backpackery. Visited the city and walked along the esplanade. Booked a 2 day/1 night live onboard dive package with Reef Encounter – 6 dives out of which one night dive. Rough weather and poor visibility but overall ok. Conditions very good on the boat, great food. Spent one more night at Dreamtime upon returning. Drove off to Townsville the next morning.

Townsville
Stayed one night at homey Orchid Gueshouse for 65$/night. Visited the Reef HQ Aquarium and Magnetic Island. For magnetic Island make sure you buy the bus ticket from the ferry terminal in Townsville to pay 3$ instead of 7$ for the day pass. On Magnetic Island visited the bays and walked the Forts walk. Drove to Ayr in the evening.

Ayr
Stayed at Divers Lodge (so-so) for one night for 68$/night. Did two breathtaking dives at Yongala the next day. Drove to Airlie Beach in the afternoon.

Airlie Beach
Stayed 3 nights at the comfortable Paradise Court – 75$/night. Walked the coast and visited the city. Did a Whitsuday tour with Big Fury which was ok. Drove to Herbey Bay with a night stop in Gladstone to break the drive.

Hervey Bay
Stayed 3 nights at Flashpackers for 80$/night. Strolled thourhg the city – the pier is nice. Did a one day Fraser Island tour with Unique Fraser Island and enjoyed it very much. Not much more value in a 2 day tour we thought. Drove to Brisbane after.

Brisbane
Spent two nights at Annie’s Shendon Inn for 79$/night – cozy and homey. Did walking tours of the city mostly – nice parks, especially the South Bank. Wehn driving to Colangata stopped at Mount Coot-tha for breakfast and views.

Coolangata
Stayed 3 nights at an AirnBnB. Walked around the city and the beaches. Ate a good burger at Burger Lounge. Whale watching tour in Gold Coast.

Sydney
Stayed 3 nights at an AirBnB near King Station. The city is great, walked in the botanical gardnes and around the harbour, had yummy food, saw a play.

French Polynesia
Flew in from Auckland and spent the night at Tahiti Airport, connecting in the morning to Maupiti.

Maupiti
Stayed for 4 nights at Pension Tereia (15000 XPF/night). Basic accomodation (like everything on the island), good food and pleasent hosts.

French speaking mostly. Did a Motu tour with them, hiked the central mountain for amazing views of the lagoon (best of

polynesia apparently after a local) and did a couple of average dives.

Raiatea
Stayed 5 nights at the awesome Raiatea Lodge for 260E/night half board. Great rooms, great food (fancy restuarant) and great staff. Did the island tour with Christian (recomended for culture), the Tahaa tour with Julien (ok but you might want to look elsewhere if you are a girl, he was a bit innapropriate) and climbed Mountain Temehani to see the Tiare flower. Did 2 interesting dives.

Tikehau
Stayed 6 nights, 4 at Hakamanu Lodge, 2 at a pension in the village for the dives. Hakamanu Lodge was priced at around 200e/night, the village pensions were slightly cheaper. Hakamanu is on an isolated Motu so perfect for being remote and isolated, not good if you get bored easily and do not enjoy long days of beach, swimming and reading. Saw rays and shark around the motu almost daily, magical. The dives were amazing, 4 of them. Would recommend Manta Ray club for better service.

USA
Flew in from Tahiti via Honolulu to San Jose.

Palo Alto
Stayed tw nights at Cardinal in downtown Palo Alto. Shared bathrooms but nice old hotel and great location. Visited Half Moon Bay and Santa Cruz on the way to Monterey.

Monterey
Two nights with an AirBnB. One day at the awesome Aquarium. Visited Carmel on our way south. Great views on US1

Pismo Beach
Night stop during our road trip down US1.

Riverside
Stopped there after picking up friends at LAX.

29 Palms (joshua tree)
Stayed here after visiting Joshua Tree.

Williams
Stayed here before Grand Canyon. Walked in the forest near the city.

Grand Canyon
Full day at Grand Canyon. One night on the park. The next day saw what we had not seen during our first day.

Page
Stoped for Antilope. Swam in the lake and visited awesome Antilope.

Bryce Canion
One night in the park for hiking. Did the 4 mile loop.

Springdale (zion)
Two nights here for hiking. Did Observation Point, Angel’s Landing and the easy path to the Narrows.

St George
One night here on the way to Vegas. 4th of july.

Las Vegas
Two nights at the Bellagio. Saw “O” and Rock of Ages. Saw the mob museum on our way out.

Ridgecrest (death valley)
In death valley visited Dante’s lookout, Bad Water, Artist Drive and Palete. Drove on and stayed at Ridgecrest

Fresno (sequioa)
On the way to Fresno visted Sequioa National Park.

Yosemitee
Two nights in Yosemitee. Trekked artist point in the first day. Trekked 4 mile trek and followed with panorama trek on the second day.

Palo Alto
Stopover before San Francisco. Dinner and a movie.

San Francisco
Stayed 3 nights at an AirBnB. Did Peer 49, Muir Woods, Legion of Honor, Fisherman’s Warf, Cable Car and walked around Little Italy and China Town.

Boston

Peru
Lima
Stayed two nights in Miraflores at Hopspedaje Dimar Inn for 2 nights. From airport took green taxi for 50 soles. Did a market tour with Lima te Llama for 65$/pers. Visited downtown via public transport. Had pisco sour at Bolivarcito. Ate at Panchita. Flight to Cusco.

Aguas Calientes
Machu Picchu
We decided to go directly from Lima to Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu base) to make dealing with altitude easier (Aguas Calientes is at 2500m, Cusco is at 3300m). To do that we did the following
– plane Lima – Cusco: 177 $/pers
– taxi Cusco Airport – Hostel in Cusco: 15 soles
– we left our large luggage at the hostel
– minivan cusco olantaytambo: 10 soles/pers
– perurail train from olantaytambo to Aguas Calientes

The Machu Picchu(MP) entreance tickets and train tickets we had bought in advance.

In Aguas Calientes we stayed at Hostel Colla Rayimi for 2 nights (35$/night). Good if you get a room with view. We bought our bus tickets for MP in the evening for 24$. The next morning we were in the queue at 5:20 and we got on the bus at 6:20. We used an audioguide from Tupuy (Android App). We hiked Montana: strenous 1.5 hiurs stairs up). We were there until 4:30 PM.

We took the train next morning back to Olantaytambo. Visited the ruins there. Took a minivan to Urubamba for 1.5 soles/pers. Hired a cab to see Maras/Moray and get us back to Cusco for 110 soles.

Cusco
Stayed 3 nights in Cusco at El Tuco for 37.5$/night. Adequate. Spent one day visiting Pisac ruins. Minivan to Pisac for 4 soles. Taxi up to the ruins for 25 soles. Hiked down to Pisac through the ruins and terraces. Coffe and minivan back. Could have visited Sacsayhuaman on the way back but altitude sickness. Visited it the next day: 12 soles taxi up and walked down. Be sure to climb both hills. In the city saw the Cathedral, San Blas and two other attractions on the bollete religioso. Spent time at the Chocomuseum. Ate at and visited San Pedro market. Cruz del sur nightbus to Arequipa for 44$/pers, VIP.

Arequipa
Stayed at Vallecito Bacpackers for 26$/night for 4 nights. Sampled local cuisine and visited Juanita Museum. Colca Canyon 2 day trek for 135 soles/pers.

Next days we took it easy, sampled chocolate and local restaurants (ZigZag for very good food for reasonable prices – 70 usd for two, Hatunpa for patatoes, La Capitana for local grub). Visited Santa Catalina. Visited the local market and bought fruit, vegetables and cheese for a local dinner. Tried local chocolate and craft beers.

Cruz del Sur bus to Puno.

Puno
One night at Hostal Andenes for 30$/night, great stay. One night on Uros Islands and one more night on Amantani.

For Uros we stayed with Khantani Uros for a great experience. 180 soles/pers. Next day we joined a group to Amantani for 100 soles/pers. One more night in Puno and then bus to Copacabana in Bolivia

Bolivia
Took bus from Puno to Copacabana, Bolivia, 3 hours for 25 soles each. In Copacabana stayed one night at Wendy Mar, nice warm hotel with great breakfast: 36$/night. Took the boat to north Isla del Sol next day for 25 bolivianos each. Trekked to the south tip of the island and stayed in a hostel for 80 bolivianos for a double with shared bathroom. Took the boat the next morning back to Copacabana and bus in the afternoon to La Paz.

La Paz
Stayed one night at Landscape B&B for 25$ double with shared bathroom. Ate at Sabor Cubano. Bus to Oruro the next morning and train to Uyuni.

Uyuni.
There are several ways to get from La Paz to Uyuni with the night bus being the most popular. We took a more comfortable bus+train day travel option. A comfortable train runs from Oruro to Uyuni on Tuesday and Friday. It costs 8.68$/pers in second class. Tickets can be bought online but only to spanish version of the website works, the english one gives out an error and says there are no availabilities (there are). You can also buy your tickets directly in Oruro station. The train leaves oruro at 14:30 and gets to Uyuni at 21:30. To catch it leave la Paz at 9, 9:30, the trip to Oruro takes 4h. There is food on the train.
In Uyuni we stayed at hotel Julia for 32$ double with shared bathroom. Has heater in room.

Uyuni Salt Flats
We took the salt flat tour with Andes Salt Expediciones which we had booked via email for 120$/pers. Sleeping bag rental is an additional 50 bolivianos(7.5$) and transfer to San Pedro 50 bolivianos more. Our driver was Gregorio. He was extremely professional and had to be excellent driving skills.

Chile
San Pedro
Stayed 4 nights in San Pedro for 62/night double with private bathroom. Decent option in overpriced San Pedro. Good pressure for hot water. Did Taito Geysers with Layana travel, Valle de la Luna with Whiphala and stargazing tour with spaceobs.com. Stargazing was really good. Layana guude was better than Whiphala. Chilled the other days. 3 or even 2 nights can be enough for San Pedro, especially after Salar de Uyuni where you see altiplano lagoons. We found a cheap flight to La Serena from Calama. Transfer from San Pedro to Calama Airport for 10000 CLP.

La Serena
Stayed 2 nights at Cosmo Elqui for 50$/night double with private bathroom. Great hostel, vibe and staff. Switched to Open Hostel in the last night (Cosmo full) for 36$/night. Good breakfast and helpful owner. Visited Elqui Valley by bus and hitchhike. Mamalluca tour with Mirador. Bus to Valparaiso.

Valparaiso

One night at Casa Volante Hostel for 40$. Decent option. Walked the city for the colors and the murals. Bus to Santiago.

Santiago
Stayed at Accero Appartments for 40$/night. One night before going to Rapa Nui and three more nights after we came back. Visited Museu de Bellas Artes, Museo de Arte Contemporana, Centro Cultural la Moneda, Museo de Arte Precolombiana. Ate at Borago ans Ambrosia. Visited Cerro Cristobal, Belle Artes, Lastaria. Night bus to Castro.

Rapa Nui
Stayed 6 nights at Cabanas Tautira. We had brought food and we had a kitchen so mostly ate at home and made sanwiches. Did a lot of walking and rented a car for one day for the most remote sights. Rested on the last day.

You can hitchhike on the island, we got reasonably lucky.

Upon arrival went to see the sunset at Ahu Tahai.

All walking daytrips can be done half day if driving but you miss some of the scenery.

Day trip(walking)
Started with a visit of Ana Kai Tangata. Trekked to Rano Kau, then Orongo. The views are incredible. Went round the crater as far as possiblr and then trekked down to Vinapu. One full day of walking

Day trip(walking)
Visiyed Hari A Urenga. Walked to Puna Pau and then to Akivi. Continued to the coast and saw Ana Te Pahau, Te Peu, Ana Te Pora, Ana Kakenga, Hanga Kio’e. Full day walking

Day trip(rented car):
Visited Anaken Beach, Te Pito Kura, Papa Vaka, Pu O Hiro, Poike. Spent more time at Tongariki and especially Rano Raraku. Continued down the coast and stopped at Akahanga and Hanga Te’e.

Day trip(walking).
Hiked to Terevaka and took in the scenery. Besides that saw the Museum which is recommend.

Castro
Arrived by ETM nightbus, comfortable. Slept one night at Don Miguel, horrible staff and termites. Second night in an AirBnB, much better. Rented a car and saw the UNESCO World Heritage Churches and Chiloe National Park. Bus to Puedro Montt for a morning bus to Bariloche.

Bariloche
Arrived at 4 PM on the bus from Puerto Montt. One night at Hosteria Guemes, nice place with friendly owner. Tried the beers at Manuch and ate at ‘El Boliche di Alberto’. Bus to Cerro Catedral the next day.

Cerro Catedral
Spent 8 nights there: 3 nights at Skisur Appartments and 5 at an AirBnB. Rented equipment from Epic and snowboarded. Andesmar nightbus to Mendoza.

Mendoza
Spent 4 nights at the wonderful Posada del Arte for 35$/night. Went on two Wine Tours, one halfday organized by the hotel and one full day with Vendimia. The half day was cheap and mass touristy. Vendimia was really nice but slightly overpriced. Did one day Aconcagua for some great sights. One day just enjoying Mendoza. Flight to Puerto Iguazu.

Iguazu
Stayed 3 nights at the cheap Gueyres for 350ARS/night (24$ at blue rate). Airport pickup for 250 ARS. Did Brazilian side of the falls first day, Argentinian second day. Ate at Aqva and la Rueda. Flight to Trelew

Puerto Madryn
Stayed at Hi Patagonia for 5 nights. Airport pickup for 150ARS/person. Penguin tour and Peninsula Valdez tour for 800ARS/person. Ask for Marcos as a tour guide. For Whale Watching fork the extra money for Yellow Submarine, it’s worth it. Go and spend a few hours on Playa Doradillo to whatch the whales passing at 15m from the beach. Bus to Rio Gallegos and then El Calafate.

El Calafate
Had a great 4 night stay at Schilling Hotel. Did the All Glaciers Cruise and Glaciar Sur Pionieros. Visited Glaciarium Museum.Ate great at Mi Rancho. Bus to Puerto Natales.

Puerto Natales
Stayed on night at gorgeous Altiplanico on a deal for 90$/night. Did the W trek east to west. Ate superbly at Singular. Bus to Ushuaia via Punta Arenas.

Ushuaia
Stayed at an AirB&B for 1900 ARS/2 nights. Visited Estancia Herberton and did a tour of the Tierra del Fuego National park with a taxi. Airplane to Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires
Splurged for a week at Fifth Floor. Besides the obvious tourist attractions went Milonga at Bicicleta, to a Polo match and saw Mataderos market on Sunday. Did several good restaurants, would recommend Chila and Aramburu.

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